Best of the best – Page 4 – No Expert …but I know what I like

Comerç 24 – we want you to be happy!

Comerç 24 will never win awards for its service I suspect, based on our experience (the exception being the sommelier, who is one of the best). I know it must be boring to repeat the same menu options and descriptions of food all day long but most good restaurants manage it. It was bewildering to watch the waiter describe in detail the food on our plates for every course while gazing out the window.

On the food front however its exceptional. It began as before with a selection of olive oils of varying strengths and bread, an olive stuffed with anchovy, golden macadamia nuts and a Parmesan cheese straw. If anything these were the weaker elements in the meal before it really got started.

The Cod ice-cream and Tuna tartare being real standouts.

We had just finished commenting on Comerc 24 food – stating that it was never just good, it was always either “very good” or “sublime”, then came a course I did not enjoy (the steak and strawberries). I left most of it, and got a reaction that really showed just how much Comerc 24 do care about the customer experience. When the waiter saw I had not finished the course he asked if there was any problems, when I said I had not really enjoyed it, he immediately insisted that I have a replacement, as quote “we want you to be happy”. The replacement course was delicious and delivered with apologies from the waiter, the sommelier and the restaurant manager!

For all its small flaws this is one restaurant we hope to return to.

Marks out of 10

Food 8.7

Service 7.5

Ambience 7

Return to top page

Tom Aikens – flavour, flavour, flavour

When it comes to squeezing flavour into food there seems to be no one better than Tom Aikens. I have been to his restaurant in Chelsea twice now and can not wait to go back again next month.

The only advice I would give is not to over order, less is more here. Which sounds odd, but we went for the larger tasting menu on our second visit and found that it was just too rich for us!.

Marks out of 10

Food 9

Service 7

Ambience 7

Return to top page

Farewell to Chris Staines @ the Foliage

Had my last meal at my favourite London restaurant the Foliage with Chris Staines as Head Chef. Chris was in the last week of his 3 months notice before he moves onto pastures new. Heston Blumenthal will open up his first London restaurant in its place in the Mandarin Oriental in a years time.

What amazed me was that even in his last week Chris was producing simply breathtakingly stunning dishes…Respect.

Over the years I’ve had some fantastic meals at the Foliage. In fact I use it as a benchmark to judge every other restaurant I visit. The service there is exceptional and the way Chris uses flavour and texture is the mark of a true artist. I suspect that the much larger replacement restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental will not live up to the high standard set by Chris or indeed Heston at the Fat Duck.

So many celebrity chefs are going down the “franchise” route, with disastrous results. The Abode chain (Micheal Caines) being a prime example and don’t get me started on how awful Harveys is (John Burton Race).

I’d like to thank Chris and his team at the Foliage for giving us many memorable meals (It was my experience of eating at the Foliage that got me interested in food) and to wish him the very best for the future. I just wish he was staying in London as his talent will be sorely missed.

Marks out of 10

Food 8

Service 9

Ambience 7

UPDATE : Chris Staines is now Head Chef at the Allium Brasserie in Bath

Return to top page

Bistro de I’Hotel de Ville, Vevey – have your cake and eat it!

We spotted the Bistro de I’Hotel de Ville when we were exploring Vevey. It is situated in a small square next to the town hall and I would go back to Vevey just for this place. It was perfect, tasty inexpensive food, nice local wines, friendly staff and fabulous pastries for dessert.

This is one of the few “non Gourmet” restaurants to find its way into the Best of the Best category.

Return to top page

Parc des Eaux Vives – a bit of a surprise! (Closed)

My first visit to the Michelin starred restaurant at Parc des Eaux Vives, a small 5 star hotel on the shore of Lake Geneva was with some trepidation. After some disappointments on the culinary front in Switzerland I expected to spend too much money on mediocre food.

The table had been booked a month in advance for Saturday lunch time, we arrived at the beautiful venue, got escorted to the lovely dinning room and found we were actually the only guests, it did not bode well!

As soon as the amuse-bouche and the amazing seaweed bread arrived we knew we were on to a winner.

We finished off a delicious meal and moved to the terrace overlooking the gardens and the lake, taking time to enjoy a small bottle of PX .

So as the first experience was so fabulous we returned, this time staying as guests in the Hotel and much too my surprise they had actually upped their game. The restaurant was still not full, just a few tables set up outside on the small terrace, which made for a lovely atmosphere. The food was superb, and beautifully presented, this place really merits its two Michelin stars.

We also tried the Hotels more informal restaurant “The Brassery”, which was OK, but nothing to write home about. Oh yes and they upgraded us to a suite, so all round it ended up being great value for the money.

UPDATE : March 2010 – This restaurant has sadly closed. See :-
Genevalunch.com

Return to top page

Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saison – any occasion!

Looking for an occasion to make a return trip to this oasis in Oxfordshire.

Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saison is just stunning, situated in the village of Great Milton just outside Oxford. You can get a train to Haddenham and Thame station (10 minutes away) or Oxford station (25 minutes away) or if you have money to burn you can always park your helicopter on the private helipad.

The Helicopters were arriving and departing quite frequently when we were there, it was the only thing disturbing the tranquility of the place.

We went for the tasting menu followed by coffee and Petits fours in the garden. One course was a standout (much too everyone’s surprise). It was “stuffed courgettes” – I hate courgettes! I have no idea what they did to them, but the dish was a talking point for a long time afterwards. The rest of the meal was splendid too.

After lunch, weather permitting it’s nice to be able to wander round the grounds, and explore the large vegetable patch and Japanese Garden.

My visit was a while ago, before I started photographing my food and surroundings, which is a real shame. All I have now are my memories, one of the strongest of which is how relaxed I felt on the visit. A visit that encompassed one long sunny Sunday afternoon but somehow felt like I had actually been on holiday for a week.

Marks out of 10

Food 8.9

Service 8.9

Ambience 9

Return to top page